Featured article #3

The-List (view original)

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As per Bigfitz:

OK, you asked for it:

  • - check tires, condition, and date codes. Replace if worn or over 6 years old (or age indeterminable.)
  • - inspect wheel rims for damage or excessive runout.
  • - check front brake pads, they'll probably need to be replaced especially if original, regardless of wear.
  • - inspect disc brake rotors for damage, wear (thickness), or excessive warpage/runout.
  • - VISUALLY check rear brake shoes for wear/delamination; adjust rear brake pedal linkage. This is very important. Delamination is common, the only way to detect it is to SEE it.
  • - inspect/lube/adjust/replace final drive chain and sprockets. Keep an eye on the chain. If it "bleeds red" when being lubed and won't hold adjustment, it's rusted internally and will need to be replaced. Always replace both sprockets with a chain.
  • - check and adjust if needed operation of front and rear brake light switches.
  • - replace rubber brake hoses (check the mfg date stamped in them).
  • - plan on rebuilding the brake master cylinder and caliper(s) and SOON.
  • - check and clean/replace the air filter element.
  • - change all fluids: fork oil, engine oil, and brake fluid.
  • - check and repair any engine or drivetrain/suspension fluid leaks.
  • - replace tach drive oil seals.
  • - replace front fork seals and dust seals.

NOTE: almost any original oil seal or engine case gasket will need to be replaced when its cover is removed for the first time.

  • - check and adjust/lubricate/replace steering head bearings.
  • - check and adjust/lubricate/control cables and speedometer and tachometer (if applicable) drive cables..
  • - replace rear shock absorbers. They were all done at 6K anyway.
  • - electrical system inspection, replace or rebuild fusebox, and most probably replace alternator brushes.
  • - check battery condition; replenish fluid (distilled water only!).
  • - clean the battery terminals.
  • - check all lights for proper operation and brightness (headlight, tail/brake light, turn signals, dash illumination).
  • - check horns for proper operation and loudness.
  • - check stator resistance.
  • - check rotor resistance.
  • - check coil primary, secondary, plug caps resistance.
  • - check and adjust camchain tensioner.
  • - check and adjust valve clearances; record your findings.
  • - check engine cylinder compression; record your findings.
  • - drain carbs, check for foreign matter in bowls, install in-line fuel filter.
  • - clean carbs, "wet-set" float levels and bench sync.
  • - check function/operation of fuel petcock; correct any leaks and/or rebuild the petcock if indicated.

After all that (and having corrected anything that needed attention along the way,)

  • -Install a new set of properly gapped NGK D8EA spark plugs, and with a fully charged battery, clean air filter, fresh gas and a little luck it might fire up.
  • - Then you do a running vacuum sync with YICS blocked.
  • - ColorTune or read your plugs to make mixture adjustments off the baseline settings.
  • - Double check the vac sync after mixture fiddling.

And that's the BASIC list.

Nothin' to it. It doesn't include cosmetics (paint, badges, etc.) or things like refurbishing your seat, upgrading the fork springs, etc.

That comes AFTER it's running right. Can it be done? Heck yes, I've done it twice and a whole lot of our members have pulled it off more times than that.

Just takes a bit of effort and a LOT of patience (and some money.) It's worth it.

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